Drink, Pray, Make Wine

Q&A with Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros

Congratulations on your 2005 Domaine Carneros Brut being recently selected as the top Best Wines Over $20 in the Sparkling Wine Category by Food & Wine in its picks for the best wines in America in its 12^th annual American Wine Awards.  It seems amazing to me that you can keep your Sparkling wines under $30. How have you been able to sustain your “sweet spot” price point and be fully organic?

"( Domaine Carneros)... has been long term on this."   In 2003 all the estate vineyards were CCOF certified and this past August, the winery became CCOF too. Even as far back as 2003, D.C. was thinking ahead and installed the largest solar collectors of any winery in the world at the time. "We did seminars on how to do it, " she said as she got so many phone calls from wineries trying to figure it out.

"(We) try to live lightly on the land...incorporate nature... is a very traditional approach." "All the herbicides and pesticides are new things." Eileen noted the winery looks like the traditional Epernay estate in France - but that it was built with many "green" and sustainable methods for energy use and temp. control.

Eileen on going organic: "It has been huge. The amount of grapes coming off our vineyards have been huge! The quality of wine is better too. It's like the difference between taking a vitamin and eating healthy."Eileen noted that the costs of going CCOF may be initially higher but said that now there is more cost efficiency. "The pay-back is better," she said. 

At the Women For WineSense “Innovative Women of Wine” roundtable back in Feb. ’09 you made the insightful comment “…even if you are on the right track you can still get run over…”  Have you found a new or unusual product or service to focus on this year, or is that still top secret?

  "Always looking for new wines...for people who are curious," she said. Noting some experiments don't work out, but she likes to try new things.  This year she wants to connect with two new wines: "For people who know us...and want to be more initimate with us and...taste the unusual."

This year Eileen is especially excited about two new products:

1. A Blanc de Noir Sparkling wine to be released in the fall. It will have a striking silver and black label and D.C. will be rolling it out with a "Black & White" ball-like party. "You can come in black tie or a white t-shirt and black shorts..." she said. Perfect for all generations.

2. "Pinot Clair" will be a white Pinot Noir still wine. "Intriguing product..." High-level mature Pinot Noir grapes will be whole cluster pressed and aged just like a red. Release date is pending.

Both wines will be available at the winery to all consumers not just wine club members.

Winemaking is an art; what “artist” (writer, musician, actor, visual artist) is your inspiration or kindred spirit?

  Eileen's artist inspiration is: HIROSHIGE: the Japanese woodblock artist known for his balance, attention to detail with an knack for creating the small unexpected visual surprise. Eileen says the longer your gaze lingers you find something unexpected that comes to you almost magically. This is Eileen's artist winemaking style. "Taste carefully, it should flow...it should also have layers, an "ah ha" moment of more intensity."

Winemaking is a science; what scientist or concept, or technique are you?

"I think there is some science but it's not all analysis." Eileen has a science background having a masters in Nutrition (besides being a Culinary Institute graduate). "Palate is calibrated, I can do it with no equipment....research is helpful we learn from it, but I don't see it as crucial to day to day winemaking."

What is your “rebel yell”- the thing you’re most passionate about?

  "Celebrate," She reminds us, "...you don't need to save the bottle - opening the bottle is the celebration." "It's an incredible treat."

Can you describe a time you were discouraged and a time you were encouraged to become a winemaker?

  "It happened on the same day!"  In 1997 Eileen met with a counselor at UC Davis who was very discouraging explaining that even though she had a masters of science, she'd have to start all over in fermentation science and after 6 years he believed no one would hire her because of the barrel work in the cellar. The best thing that counselor did was give Eileen the name of Dr. Ann Noble who was teaching the desired classes. A few hours after the discouraging words, Dr. Noble's counsel was that Eileen didn't need to start over. No, she just needed to take some key classes and then convince someone she could do it. It took persistence to actually get into Ann's classrooms (standing out in the hallway day). It took continued persistence to climb the winery job ladder from tour guide to pastry chef to assistant wine maker to grand dame winemaker and becoming one of our national treasures!

What’s the greatest challenge facing a vivacious vigneron today?

 We spoke about the feeble economy as a challenge. She thinks it may not get better as fast as everyone else thinks. Eileen who is an optimist by nature is also a realist as her dad worked in Wall Street so she said she became aware of the economic cycles at an early age. Eileen sees this low cycle as "exciting" and a time "to find new ways to do things."

Bonus question: Most people don’t know……

  Domaine Carneros did not have layoffs at the winery in 2009!

Celebrating Eileen Crane Style

Pea Noir's Mini-Harvest & Q&A with Domaine Carneros Winemaker: Eileen Crane

Celebrating Harvest 2009 Eileen Crane Style

Serramarrocco '04 Update: Oxbow Wine Merchant Has A Few Cases Left

Jeff Prather, Certified Master of the Obvious at Oxbow Wine Merchant, dialed down for me and found out from the importer that there are four cases still available. Then 2004 vintage is" la fine."

I am buying a case. This is not an advertisement. I am not getting paid by Oxbow. I just think it's that good a wine. You can reach Jeff at Oxbow Wine Merchant by calling 707- 257-5200, or email [email protected].

What I Drank Over Labor Day: A Perfect Red From Sicilia

On a personal wine drinking note: I have to make a recommendation for a non-typical, non-Italian varietal red from Siclia. I want more CA winemakers to move into the Serramarrocco direction. Actually, I bet Montemaggiore could do this. Smooth (low) tannins with a long well-ordered finish of dark fruit, #2 pencil, toasty cedar and oak wood. It really was a perfect red for my palate and homemade Pork Sugo and pasta. My dining partner also swooned and thought I'd threw down a Benjamin for it.

AND MY LABOR OF WINE LOVE THIS WEEKEND WAS....

Tenuta di Serramarrocco 2004 a classic Bordolese-blend of Cab Sav, Merlot, & a pinch of Cab Franc. Wine maker is Nicola Centonze. It was all of $38 at the Oxbow Wine Merchant in Napa. I am going back for more if I can find it. Snooth and 1,000 Corks don't have info on a vendor. If anyone sees this in your favorite wine shop let me know!

2009 Crush On: So You Wanted to Be a Winemaker?